A (successful) study in topstitching, edgestitching and presser feet

Here it is: The final piece of my 2008 PR Wardrobe Contest Collection–my denim skirt.

This was my first attempt at a denim piece (beyond the curtains in my son’s bedroom). Even more importantly, it was my first attempt at a jeans pattern. I have never done a bottom with a back yoke like this, a front fly, or this much top stitching. I must say I am very proud of myself!

Here are the pattern details:

Pattern: I used McCall’s 5142. I made the higher waist, contoured waistband version (D/E).

Fabric: A stretchy denim from my stash. I’m almost certain that I bought it Jo Ann’s last summer. I don’t love the fabric after working with it. I hope it doesn’t stretch out too much as I wear it.

Thread: After much internal debate, I decided to top stitch with silver (as opposed to black which wouldn’t have shown any mistakes). I actually used the same thread for the whole garment rather than switch back and forth.

What I did:

  • I started by tracing the pattern pieces that I needed onto freezer paper. The pattern piece measurements matched my measurements, so I didn’t make any size alterations this time. Next time, I need to figure out how to adjust for sway back.
  • Instead of tracing the pant leg pattern piece as is, I needed to modify them. I traced the top part of the piece, down to the widest point on the outside of the leg (the hip). From there I drew straight down. On the crotch side, I found the center front, added 5/8 inch and drew a line straight down. Because the stitching lines for the crotch followed the slight angle on the crotch, I just rotated the pattern to match my new center front and traced those off.
  • I wasn’t sure about the pockets, so rather than use the pattern provided, I traced the pocket off my favorite jeans and added seam allowances. The designs on the pockets were totally free-handed.
  • I did not include the small coin pocket (piece #1).
  • I put the front pockets together like instructed. (These are lined with the same green and blue dots that I made a top from for this wardrobe. Sorry, no picture of the lining.)
  • I put the fly together following the pattern instructions, except for step 14. That tells you just to stitch between the larger and small circle. Since I wasn’t making a pants crotch, I actually stitched a 5/8 inch seam from the large circle to the bottom of the skirt.
  • I put the back together as instructed until step 37. Since I wasn’t making a pants crotch, I just stitched the back seam.
  • I tried the skirt on before adding the waist band and wound up making much deeper seams on both sides. I probably could have cut a size or 2 smaller in the hips, especially since this is a stretchy denim.
  • The waist band went on just like the instructions.
  • I choose to leave off the belt carriers, as I never wear belts.
  • I chopped off extra length and used a blind hem to finish the skirt.


As for all the top stitching and edge stitching:I switched between 2 presser feet constantly.

To edge stitch, I used my blind hem foot and moved my needle as for to the left as possible. The blind hem foot allowed me to follow the edge or the seam as closely as possible.

To top stitch, I used my zig-zag foot. I found that if I lined my edge-stitched seam up with the edge of my presser foot, then my top-stitched seam would fall 1/4 inch away.

I am very pleased with the effect.

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